I made an update of the points to the bakelite from the plastic feet of the points. Last a lot longer.

Wanted to make sure the pinion key was straight as it was very tight.

Plug crank end to keep oil in and later into the pressure release valve hole until ready for cover.

Sometimes it is hard to read the timing marks. The pinion mark can be very small. If a corner of the pinion nut masks this mark the nut will have to be removed again when a idler gear gets loose on the bench. A spot of white paint here helps. There is a line to the left of the pinion punch mark.

An extra pinion makes a good stop with a torque wrench. There is white paint on the pinion mark.

I took this next pic to explain that I set the timing before lowering the tappets. The brown paper with black rubber piece in the rear tappet area is paper surrounding a rubber buffer used on battery boxes to keep the tappets squeezed in the up position. This way the moly does not get wiped off. I try to set the push rods and rockers just before start up. Maybe it helps leaving it on the tappets and cams longer and maybe it will do some good. Who knows. Also, the engine is in the 38 degrees before top dead center for timing. I use a 12 volt bulb to check anything I do with a continuity light. The early timing tool is shown because I am going to try to put a split pin in the 69 tool also.

It is very important to get the correct item for the 70-4707 rubber grommet for the points wire. It goes into the case first then the timing cover butts up against it. A lot of dealers will send one smaller with the rectangular hole for the points wire. This was an original part since the early 60s. This picture shows what works and most dealers used these even from the sixties. Buy this shape.

Click on the gallery of pictures. At the bottom of the pics will be a menu to bring you back here or to the Homepage. Later in a restoration they may be worthwhile.