Cylinders Review

Quote from Mr. John Healy of BritBike message board:

"You mentioned "dry" assembly. But there is more to it than "dry." After the cylinder is honed it must be washed in hot soapy water until all of the "swarf" (bits of cast iron and bits of stone from the hone) left by the honing process is removed from the cylinder. DO NOT WASH THE CYLINDER IN A SOLVENT. It will not properly clean the cylinder."

"When you are sure the cylinder is clean rub a lightly oiled lint free rag on the cylinder bore making sure that when you are finished, the white rag does not come out with any grey residue from the honing process! Failing to remove the swarf left from the honing will leave small bits of honing stone embedded in the cylinder wall. These stone bits will cut the pistons and the rings often leading to ring failure. We have all seen pistons with fine striations on the face of the pistons and rings."

"The dry assembly comes when you do the final assembly and you lightly oil the thrust faces of the piston with MOTOR oil, but leave the rings themselves dry. You oiled the cylinder when you wiped it down after honing so the rings are not rubbing on bare cast iron (which would damage the rings and lead to high oil consumption or piston seizure)."


I reused the head gasket because it was still .040 thickness. It is important to note that the gasket has to be fitted for oversized bores. Use a sand dremel on the inside edge. Then round off any sharp edges. Mr Leo Goff from Memphis Motor Werks in Tennesee clued me into this and recommended to make it even with the cylinders to within 1-2 thousandths. It looks a little off on the bottom right but that is my photo skill. When all the bolts are in it does line up properly.


The crosshatch looks close to right.


These are the gallery of pictures. Click one. At the bottom of the pics will be a menu to bring you back here or go to the Homepage. Later in a restoration they may be worthwhile.


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