Wiring



Wiring per TR6Ray

Don't let this picture confuse you. It is where you want to be as you finish up. Read on and find out how to get here. The white zener diode wire on the right is not used. See the fuse buss on the left? Later TR6Ray told me it would be good to use the middle unused fuse blades of the buss seen here to run an extra wire to an extra relay in the headlight, one to use for low beam and one to use for high beam in case one went out - a flip of the handlebar switch would let you see your way at night.


Triumph 650

   TR6Ray, from the Brit Bike forum has, as I said before, an excellent write up there. In fact, I haven't found as good a write up for a T120R anywhere else. His story about the restoration of his 1964 TR6R Triumph covers everything. There is no way I could duplicate his technical knowledge. Please visit his wiring page and link to all the other great write ups:


TR6Ray's Triumph  (link courtesy of TR6Ray on Britbike.com).

His pictures and description are much better than what I can present here. His is the guide. My pictures only represent what I did and hopefully the pictures will help you understand his wiring diagrams at the end. These can be copied at the end of this page or on TR6Ray's Brit Bike page. NOTE: There are several pictures that follow with explanations before the gallery pictures and wiring diagrams. This is a long page that makes clear wiring, which is difficult anyway.




Single Point Ground and Fuse Buss

Triumph 650

The tab on the back of the battery box makes a great place for a single point ground as can be seen in the white box. The battery terminal wires have been cleaned up since this picture was taken. The negative wire to the battery should have two leads from this post. This was a revision by Ray:"I deduced that I had used too small a wire for my -ve battery lead. The original harness had two leads (in a common crimp) emanating from the -ve battery post. One went to the horn and stop lamp (neither of which were supplied with power passing through the headlight ammeter). The other lead went to the headlight ammeter and then to the rest of the bike. I opted for only one lead on the battery, and that was a mistake. I took this single lead to a 4-way bullet connector and split it there with one lead to the horn/stop lamp circuit and the other to the ammeter. While it is more convenient to have only one lead at the battery post, I had effectively cut the ampacity of the wire in half. All this would be okay if I had used a larger conductor from the battery to the snap connector, but what I used was a piece of wire from the original harness. So . . . one more order to British Wiring to get some Brown/blue 28/.3 (rated for 17.5A) and replace that smaller lead." On my bike I opted to use the thicker wire instead of two leads from the battery as stated.


Remember This?


Triumph 650

It has been a long time since I have seen the original points wire. This was hard to find. Bought two so that I have one for the 1969.


Points Plate


Triumph 650

I upgraded the points plate. I found that I could get a cheap rivet gun and some rivets at the hardward store. I have made a few sets with the dark brown bakelite type points. They last a lot longer. Hard to do !


TR6Ray's Fuse Bracket


Triumph 650

This is made from 22 gauge steel. The tab on the right hand side is to mount a relay for the horn and stop light circuit. I was able to get dimensions by trial and error measurements.


Battery Box


Triumph 650

Directly quoted from TR6Ray: "The smart way to attach the reg/rect is to drill a couple holes and file them square to accept carriage bolts. That leaves the carriage bolt heads sticking up and the battery has to sit on them. A rubber pad with two clearance holes cut out will take care of that. However, I'm not that smart, so I went to a little more trouble. I had some 1/4-20 flat head, countersink machine screws around, so I used them. With two holes laid out and drilled through the bottom of the box, I dropped the bolts through and surrounded them on the bottom side with some big oversize flat washers. On top of those washers went a smaller washer and a nut. Then I tightened the heck out of the nuts till the countersink heads came flat with the inside of the battery box, like this".


Battery Box Continued


Triumph 650

Directly quoted from TR6Ray: "Since the bottom of the battery box is double thickness plate, I could not quite form the countersink areas strictly by tightening the little bolts. A few taps of my trusty hammer on a drift finished the job. Of course, all this made some bulges sticking out the bottom, but I had a plan for that. While not absolutely needed, I've read it's a good idea to have some sort of heat sink for the regulator, especially since this one will be somewhat shielded from the air stream. So I cut one from some 3/16 aluminum. It wound up being 3" x 5", so about 15 square inches, before the corners were dubbed off a bit. I countersunk the holes in the heat sink plate for clearance like this". (Sic: Countersink the holes in the battery box too.)


Battery Box Continued


Triumph 650

Directly quoted from TR6Ray: "The heat sink plate extends a little forward of the battery box, but doesn't look too bad. That area is hidden anyway. It gives the reg/rect a good place to bolt up. The heat sink plate and the reg/rect have to be staggered forward to clear the slope of the rear fender (mud guard) angling down directly behind them. In this picture, my hand is on the back of the battery box, where the fender will be. It is a very close fit but has just enough clearance."


Battery Box Continued


Triumph 650

Directly quoted from TR6Ray: "The fuse block and the relay will attach with their male spade connectors sticking down. Here's a view from the bottom side where the wires will attach."


Battery Box Continued


Triumph 650

Directly quoted from TR6Ray: "Finally, here's a shot of the battery box assembly, with the fuse block and relay loosely attached to the bracket, and the bracket hung onto the battery box cross-bar." NOTE: This is an early battery box strap. It works on the 69 also which I have installed in my 66.


The Headlight Shell


Triumph 650

This picture shows the headlight relays. These are wired into a harness and the TechFlex that is braided can be seen. See later pictures. The original diagrams indicate to run a purple hot wire from the fuse buss and split it off to the two relays. Ray indicted later a better way (which I did) was to run an extra hot wire from the blank center fuse on the fuse buss with the other purple wire and have one to each relay. That way at night and one of the filaments in the bulb goes out it is a simple matter of flicking the hi-lo switch and be able to get home. Not shown in this picture is a jumper wire around the ammeter to prevent burning up the ammeter due to short.

TechFlex


Ray

Ray is spreading the TechFlex to show the loops where extra wire leaders can exit.


TechFlex Order


Big Bag

This is what I had to order to get the right size. There are different sizes. They sent me too much. RAY if you see this I have about 12 feet left over and won't need it. I know you are going to keep on restoring your bikes so if you want it let me know.


Great Photo of Wires Entering the TechFlex.


Nice

See the white box.


Engine Ground Wires

Nice

The red ground wires come out of the TechFlex and see the TechFlex running along with the original.



Join along during the restoration!!'

The diagrams below can be downloaded and printed from here or TR6Ray's web pages. It takes a bit of reading and thinking about how to go about using the diagrams. If you click the picture it takes you to a larger, clearer picture. If you have a fuse box and get color coded wires from British Wiring web site lay it all out and it comes together. I spent several hours on them.




Per TR6Ray:"Page #1 only shows the tail lamp / stop lamp and the related little harnesses for them. The stop lamp will be controlled by a relay, which is only active when the ignition is on. This same relay will supply the horn as well. Hence the stop lamp and horn will both be dead when the key is off."

Here's Page #1:





Per TR6Ray:"Page 2 has more of the guts of the system, including the battery, alternator, Podtronic R/R, fuse block connections, etc. This is also the start of the main harness, which will run on forward into the headlight. So, where the harness goes off the right edge of page #2, it comes in on the left edge of page #3. Fuse ratings shown here are only a WAG. I'll need to figure out later what is appropriate, but all are of lesser rating than the main fuse between the +ve battery post and the ground stud. Also, the ignition and light switches are the original ones from this bike. I am only showing the pin connections I will be using. They are shown on this page because they are mounted on the left side cover."

Here's page 2:




Per TR6Ray:"Page #3 shows the ignition system connections and the horn."

Here's page 3:




Per TR6Ray:"Page #4 shows the stuff up front. I cheated and left some of the wires off the picture, but covered them in notes on the page."

Here's page 4:





This is a bonus. This is a safety switch. It has to be switched on in order to start the bike. If the ignition is turned on before that then the horn sounds and there is no starting it. Very cool. Again, the diagrams help. Can only find at Land Rover dealer or other English auto dealer.   Disregard Fitting Lucar in last picture.







Homepage

Printable Link

Previous Page | Main Page | Next Page