Better to clean threads before assembly but I don't have a vice. You need to be very steady. In the back of the drilled holes there was silicone and garbage that had been there 50 years. |
It is very important to get the transmission gears traveling as straight as possible. I think it was said to try to get it less than .004 in alignment. This side was completely worn out. Notice the new chain wheel and clutch hub. There are pictures further down. Thanks to TR6Ray for his disciplined monograph. The chain tensioner blade is in the right way around. I have seen many blades with the rubber on the other side: this is for a 500. This primary side was totally gone. Nothing was salvageable. The new end float brought all in line. |
The clutch hub was worn out. I even measured the rollers and they were worn .002. I don't know how it ran at all. When you get the gears and chain in place it is nominal clearance. You have to pull chain tight. |
This sprocket is worn greatly on the outside. In the pictures below the old chain wheel is shown with tremendous wear on the inside shoulder. The chain also was extremely worn on the sides. Trashed. |
These are the gallery of pictures. Click one. At the bottom of the pics will be a menu to bring you back here or go to the Homepage. Later in a restoration they will be worthwhile. Marino at MAP Cycles sells a double lipped front engine seal. It seems to work but I am going to replace it with the original this week. I will put the spring out. I do not want ATF fluid mixing with the oil. The alternator works well. Looks like the repair will hold. I had a friend with a lathe take 0.002 inch off the rotor. That centralized it. Charges well. |